Monday, June 30, 2008

Subway Cave & Burney Falls 6.30.08



After another great campfire breakfast, we took off to Subway Cave, a lava tube-like cave formed about 20,000 years ago. The roof of the cave partially collapsed revealing about 1/3 of a mile of a lava tube cave.



We entered through the 'Devils Doorway', checked out stubtoe hall, the wind tunnel (where the walls & ceilings narrow), lucifer's cul-de-sac, the sanctum (the largest area in the cave with ceilings of 17 feet & over 20 feet wide), even some lava bubbles at the end. The thickness of the roof was between 8 and 24 feet! The cave was cool - around 46 degree year round except for outside where it was in the 90's. The plants & trees around the cave & above it were beautiful.







Inside it was total darkness & we took our headlamps with us. A group leaving just ahead of us only took one flashlight and their batteries went bad...they had to feel their way out! They said it was spooky.



From there we continued North to the McArthur Burney Falls Memorial State Park to see Burney Falls, a 129 ft spring fed waterfall.



The water is a cool 42 degrees year round & comes surging over both the top & also from springs in the rocks across the face of the waterfall. They estimate that 100 million gallons of water cascade over the falls everyday. There was even a turtle swimming in the rocks at the bottom of the falls. I love turtles... :-)



We took the short, 1 1/2 mile hike down & around the falls, then drove down to Britton Lake for a PB&J lunch.



After relaxing at the lake for a bit, we deove back to camp, showered (25 cents a minute!), read, dinner, fire, etc. It's a beautiful night and the campground is nearly full! Surprising for a Sunday night when most people bail. The only thing we can come up with is people have taken this entire week off for the 4th of July weekend.

Michael has somehow lost his shampoo & soap, claiming to have left it right on the seat of the Jeep. We've had a standing joke since leaving the Redwoods where a certainl ill-fated carton of eggs was accidentally left on the running boards of the Jeep and didn't make it back to camp with us... So that is the only thing we can recon...it must have been left on the running boards somehow. How they got there, only he knows... haha.

More to follow!
Rene

Bumpass Hell 6.31.08



Today we took off on an auto tour of Lassen Volcanic Nat'l Park and hiked Bumpass Hell. Lassen is a crazy place where the landscape changes about every couple miles. You could spend weeks just exploring all of the differences. We started at Manzanita Lake, where we're camping. The lake was created during one of the avalanches 1,100 years ago. We drove through the area, stopping at 'Hot Rock', a 30 ton rock swept there by the 1915 avalanche. It has the 'hot rock' name because 7 days after the avalanche, the mud was still boiling around it, was approx 1000 degrees & took months to cool. Devastated Area was next and gets it's name as the 1915 eruptions transformed this place from a mature forest to a landscape of mud, ash, & rocks. Still today, there are tons of jumbled rocks for the ground with trees growing out of them. A few other stops included Hat Lake, Summit Lake, Kings Creek, Lake Helen, & finally we arrived at the Bumpass Hell trailhead. Bumpass Hell is the most popular hydrothermal feature of Lassen. It has boiling pools,
fumaroles (small ground vent with steam),
mud pots,
& beautiful colors everywhere.
It's amazing. It's what I would imagine the moon looks like! The steam & gas are created when rain & melted snow (yes, there was snow!) percolates down into the earth where the water is superheated by hot rocks or cooling magma.
Water boiling underground results in a high pressure steam & gas reservoir over the top of the heated water. It smelled like sulfur & the water flowing was very warm - like bath water. The part I loved the most was the colors everywhere. When the sulfuric acid is diluted by water, colored iron & magnesium clay, orange brown iron, & other colors appear. It was amazing to be at 8200' elevation, in shorts & tank tops, walking through snow on a sunshiny, 65 degree day. And to imagine volcanic activity right under our feet!! It was quite impressive.



We continued to the 'Sulfur Works' area of the park where we ate PB&J's again and viewed more boiling mud pots & fumaroles.



After our hike & drive we were both exhausted as we got a little too much sun so we headed back to camp. The campsite is covered with a yellow dust & we finally had a chance to ask a Ranger what it is...it's pollen! There's TONS of it!! It's a crazy bright yellow & blankets everything! The park is nice but we're ready to head out tomorrow. We've both been feeling a little low & think it's the smoke in the air from the wildfires. Maybe Reno will cheer us up!!



If we had another day here, I'd definitely love to hike Lassen Peak! Unfortunately the smoke was just too thick and we wouldn't be rewarded with a magnificent view so what's the point?! Another time...

More to follow!!
Rene
This guy was just too cute not to share on the slog!!

Sunday, June 29, 2008

Lassen Volcanic Nat’l Park 6.29.08


We made it!! We took a lazy morning to get up & around (we didn’t want to leave the nice air conditioned room!) and took off for Lassen in the afternoon. There are fires about 20 miles from the campground and we were considering just blowing off the stop, but checked it out anyways. The air quality in the campground is good, much better than it is in Redding, so we stopped. We picked out our campsite (Lassen is a first come, first served campground) and started to setup camp….just as a thunderhead decided to dump a bit of rain & sleet on us. Michael’s not a fan of camping in the rain and the little downpour put a damper on his spirits. But it passed, thank goodness & the sun came out a little while later. We walked down to Lake Manzanita to check it out & watch some kids in blow up boats enjoy the lake.

Today is a very special day!! We’ve been camping now for 4 whole weeks – we’re half way finished with our trip! Woohoo! We’ve had a great time and can’t wait for the remaining 4 weeks. Our plan is to head from here to Reno, then to Yosemite for 10 days, Kings Canyon for 5, Sequoia Canyon for 5, then to Palm Springs to visit family, then to San Diego, Los Angeles, & back in Channel Islands for the 1st of August.

We celebrated with a fabulous bottle of wine given to us by our friends Dale & George & ate a ‘heater meal’ for dinner. Haha… The campground is nice – we picked a spot that is away from most everyone, and backs up against a wooded hill. We have seen several deer & squirrel so far this evening. It’s beautiful, would only be better if there was more visibility. We’ll be here for 3 nights then off to Reno.

Our last 2 campgrounds have been ‘bear country’ campgrounds – so we have to use a bear box to store our food, drinks, & all toiletries. They’re pretty large, we can get all of our food, two coolers (one for food & one for drinks), & everything in with no problem. The saying is ‘A fed bear is a dead bear’ because bears are no longer relocated if they begin coming into a campground, they just destroy the bear. So we’re being extra careful!!

More to follow…
Rene
{GMST}40|31.549|N|121|33.743|W|Camping at Manzanita Campground in Lassen Volcanic Nat’l Park|Lassen Volcanic Nat’l Park!{GEND}

Saturday, June 28, 2008

Detour, California wildfire style 6.28.08

Just as we suspected, highway 299 was closed heading East into Redding. So we left the Redwoods and headed Northeast into Oregon and then hit Interstate 5 down to Redding. On the way, we had some fantastic views of Mt. Shasta, the 5th largest mountain in California.


We arrived at 5pm to 105 degrees and smoky, hot weather! You know that old saying ‘Be careful what you wish for cause you might just get it’? Well…we got it!! We went straight from 50-60 degree weather right to 100 degree weather! Whew!! The visibility was down to 3 blocks, if that and the smell of smoke was heavy in the air. The temps seemed to amplify the effect.

Because Redding was a one night stop, we checked into a hotel and really appreciated the A/C! We walked over to a highly suggested sushi spot for dinner and after that…watched a couple of hours of TV, checking e-mails, & surfing the net.

It’s questionable whether we will stop in Lassen Volcanic Park or not as we’ll see how smoky it is in the campground when we get there. The temps are scheduled to be in the upper 90’s, hot & smoky. If not, we’re headed to Reno for a few more days.

More to follow…
Rene
{GMST}40|35.242|N|122|23.474|W|Hanging out at a hotel in Redding, CA|Redding, CA!{GEND}

Thursday, June 26, 2008

Fern Canyon 6.26.08



We met a wonderful couple from New Mexico/Alaska that are here for his 85th birthday & have had several family members come camping with them. They have come to this park for years & highly suggested a hike up to Fern Canyon - a place Michael had heard of from others & I read as one of 'four great hikes' in this area. It didn't disappoint!! Fern Canyon is best described as a 'lost world' - a narrow canyon with 50ft walls that are carpeted with luxuriant ferns, moss, & waterfalls. the creek flows through with a chilly, crystal clear water right out to the ocean. The hike was beautiful - spectacular views & lots of different scat to try & identify!! Bear or elk...we're just not sure.



Speaking of Elk, as we were driving to our hike this morning, we came around a bend to find a bunch of cars pulled off to the side of the road. There, across the street, were 5 Roosevelt Bull Elks!! They were HUGE and so majestic! They are supposed to grow to be half-ton & these were easily that big!
We saw another one just near the trailhead, a female, that I swear was posing for me! She posed, I snapped a picture, she walked a few feet, I snapped a picture, turned to face me, I snapped a picture, turned her head the other way, I snapped a picture. Although when I told her to 'work it'....she took off. I guess she's not ready for the runway yet.



After we hiked Fern Canyon, we walked out to Gold Bluffs Beach & watched the waves crash in for a little bit. The sun FINALLY decided to come out for a bit & we were lucky we did the hike when we did! When we arrived, there were only 2 cars in the parking lot. When we left, it was full! We travelled into the town of Orick for lunch & a few supplies - then went to the Information Station to find out about road conditions for our departure tomorrow. Good thing we did - the Highway we were going to take, Hwy 299, was closed due to the fires. The alternate route was also closed. So tomorrow, we'll have to take the 199 North into Oregon and then take the 5 South, about a 3 hour delay. Bummer. O-well! I was hoping to get into Oregon! The only bummer is that I'll miss the Bigfoot Museum!!

We finished at the Information Station & drove to the Lady Bird Johnson grove of redwoods for a Ranger led hike. We lucked out and Ranger Jen, from last night's fireside chat, led the hike. The title of the hike was 'The everything besides Redwoods' where we learned of all the other trees & how they benefit the forest, wildflowers, lichens, mosses, & plants in the area. Again, we learned a lot & it was beautiful day.
Back at the campsite, we played a couple more rounds of dominoes (I won this time!), chatted with the family down the way who generously gave me a bottle of Aloe Vera for my leg, ate dinner, & warmed up by the campfire. Tonight's fireside chat was about Black Bears & how to be safe around them & what to do if you see one. It was good, but not as good as the last two.

Oh...a funny thing in the park literature...it states "If being attacked by a mountain lion, fight back aggressively." Well, I can assure you...if I'm being attacked, I'm definitely going to fight back!!

We've really enjoyed the Coastal Redwoods & are looking forward to seeing the behemoth giant sequoias...but are most ready for some warm weather!

More to follow...
Rene

Wednesday, June 25, 2008

Another lazy (ha!) day 6.25.08

It was cold & overcast again this morning - go figure! When it's overcast outside, it's hard to tell what time it is when you're laying inside the nice warm sleeping bag in the tent. Michael is the 6-7am guy where I can easily sleep in most every morning. But this morning, even Michael slept in. By the time we were up & around, it was about 11!


I'll share a funny story - I woke up & hurried out of the tent up to the public bathrooms. I was still in my PJ's (which were mismatched because of my Poison Oak issue), my hair was still bed-mussed, & I still had my teeth retainers in. I stumbled up to the bathroom, barely able to see as my eyes had not 'woken up' yet, and there were 3 teeny-boppers sitting on the rail outside the bathroom door and the stalls were busy. Wanting to make sure they weren't waiting in line, I turned to them and asked 'Are you waiting?'...the problem was that my voice also wasn't working yet...and what was intended as a considerate question....turned into a very raspy grunt/growl....the girls' eyes turned as big as saucers and they assured me they weren't waiting. I laughed all the way back to the campsite imagining their comments.


So we took off to do a hike one of the Rangers had told us about called the Kalamath Overlook, which was about 10 miles from here. We drove to the spot where we were supposed to park & start the hike, but the temp was still 52 degrees & overcast so we decided to drive the rest of the way. Once at the overlook, the fog was really rolling in & we could barely see the ocean! We met a roving ranger who told us we just missed a bald eagle! The other had his zipper down & we elected to quickly take a couple of pics and move along.


From there, we drove through the town of Kalamath looking for the ever friendly laundromat. Kalamath was not a very welcoming place & the laundromat we found was a bit scary so we headed North to our favorite Crescent City.


On the way, we stopped at the 'Trees of Mystery' which was an area with gondolas that take you up through the canopy of some redwood trees with a trail to the bottom. Because it was so foggy & cold we decided to skip the gondola ride & instead checked out the 'End of the Trail' museum. It's the largest private collections of native american artifacts. There were clothing, pottery, baskets, weapons, & tools that enabled those remarkable cultures to thrive. The tribes in the area are the Yurok & Tolowa groups. At the 'Trees of Mystery' stands Babe the Ox & Paul Bunyan towering above everything else.




Again in Crescent City, we hit the Thai place for lunch (yeah, we're a little bit creatures of habit) and had about an hour's time of internet & phone service while doing laundry. We headed back to camp & played a couple games of dominoes (Michael won both) and had dinner & a campfire with some redwood we purchased in town. We went to the evening 'fireside chat' given by Ranger Jen about 'The darkside of the forest' - about the animals that come out at night. Owls, skunks, foxes, porcupines, bats, opposum, racoons, flying squirrels, and how to safely do a night hike & identify the animals. Ranger Jen even did some fantastic owl sound impressions that were dead on! The presentation & info given was spectacular & she was a great speaker.


More to follow...
Rene

Tuesday, June 24, 2008

Hiking in Elk Prairie 6.24.08



After a fantastic breakfast, we took off to hike a couple of trails here in the park. The trailhead to about 10 different hikes starts just at the info station. We hiked the Cathedral Trees trail, Circle trail, Prairie Creek trail, Revelation trail, & Nature trail. All the trails were nice - lots of redwoods, oaks, ferns, & tons of other vegetation. It's amazing how many shades of green there are out here!!
There were lots of beautifule flowers & berries as well.
The trees are soo huge!!
Of all the plants, flowers, & animals we have seen so far - my favorite was the banana slug... It's so ugly & creepy, it's cool...hahaha



Tonight is cool - in the 50's & we have a nice warm campfire and Michael's bbq'ing a tri-tip...yumm!! We went to the campfire chat this evening hosted by the USFS Ranger - it was on tectonic plates & how this area was formed. It was a great discussion & very informative!!

More to follow...
Rene

Monday, June 23, 2008

Crescent City 6.23.08



We went into Crescent City today, which is about 20 miles from our campsite, for groceries & errands. We needed to find a post office, bank, grocery store, lunch & laundry. Right beside the laundromat was a theatre so we figured - why not! It was a cold, overcast day...perfect for a movie. So we used up our spare time for some geocaches & an early dinner and went to see 'Sex in the city'. Our drive back was spectacular - the sun was just setting & was marvelous. We had a quick stop while there was orange in the sky for a photo of the 'Golden Bears' on the Klamath River bridge & it was dark when we made camp. A fun, necessary errand day.
More to follow...
Rene

Sunday, June 22, 2008

Redwood National Park 6.22.08

Woohoo! We made it!! Our furthest place North and brrr is it chilly!! Haha.. Not really, the temps are in the low 60’s for a high, and into the 50’s at night. The drive here was pretty uneventful – we headed out around10:30 and headed North along Hwy 101. We stopped in Loleta to see the Loleta Cheese Factory – http://www.loletacheese.com/ – where Rita was nice enough to explain what was going on in the factory & even took my camera into the back room to snap some shots! Thanks Rita!! They were making 2 cheeses when we arrived – Cheddar & Organic Cheddar.
One of the vats was ‘cooking’, while the other was ‘cooling’ and was just about ready for the whey to be drained off (the watery substance) & the curds (the globs) to be placed into the boxes you see & pressed overnight. They place about 43 lbs in and in the morning, nice 40lb blocks of cheese are ready to cut & package. The whole process was pretty cool.


We continued up the 101 to Eureka, where we stopped for lunch & to see the Carson Mansion, a building that took 100 men over a year to build. I would love to see it from the inside!
By the way – folklore claim that when whaler James T. Ryan sailed into the bay in spring of 1850, he shouted ‘Eureka!’ (Greek for ‘I’ve found it!), and the name stuck. Funny…


Our campground is called ‘Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park’ and has an elk grazing prairie surrounding the entrance to the campground. We saw two elk – and a baby chomping away as we entered the park. Our campsite is very cool – (temperature and view!) – our tent is surrounded by 6 large moss-covered redwood trees, ferns, and beautiful greenery everywhere we look. It’s a pretty small campground – 76 sites total, and only 18 on our ‘loop’. We setup & are beginning to plan what we’ll do the next 5 days!

More to follow…
Rene
{GMST}41|21.523|N|124|01.844|W|Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park!|Redwood National Park{GEND}

Saturday, June 21, 2008

Avenue of the Giants 6.21.08




Today was a busy day! We started out by checking out the ‘Avenue of the Giants’ – a 32 mile drive that parallels Hwy 101 & the Eel River.





It is an old growth redwood forest – the 3rd largest in California – which means the trees are more than 200 years old. It was spectacular. The trees are awe inspiring, absolutely beautiful! And the other flora & fauna in the forest was magical as well. I am still amazed at not only how big & tall the trees are – but how even after they fall, still sustain the forest. It was so cool to see smaller trees sprouting from downed trees, ferns growing from the roots, and all of the other plants in the forest. Ever downed tree supports over 4000 other species. Amazing! It’s hard to get a feel for just how large & tall they are…I hope these pics put some perspective on it!



Some other cool stuff about the California Redwoods:
- They can live over 2,000 years & withstand floods, insects, & fires.
- Trees that fall are left to decompose naturally & it’s estimated it will take 200-400 years to fully be absorbed into the forest floor.
- Living, they support over 1700 species of plants/animals and dead, they can support over 4000!
- The bark can grow up to 12 inches deep!
- There are 3 different types – Coastal Redwoods, the tallest of the bunch, Giant Sequoia’s, the largest, and Dawn Redwoods – found mostly in China but still resides in California and is distinguished by it’s smaller size & different leaves.
- Coastal Redwoods grow in a narrow strip along the Pacific Coast of California & southwestern Oregon. Giant Sequoias grow only in the Sierra Nevada’s western slope.



When we started out on the Avenue of the Giants, we didn’t have a map of the area and just winged it, driving along until it looked like a good place to stop. We ended up stopping alongside the road where the ‘Mahan plaque’ was placed. We walked into the trail and found ourselves on the Dyerville Loop – a trail that took us to the tallest in the world redwood – the Dyerville Giant. It fell in 1991 and was measured at 370 feet – six times taller than the statue of liberty or two feet taller than Niagara Falls!!





The above pic is me on top of it...and the below one is me taking a photo of Michael at ground level!!




It is estimated to be 1600 years old and was taller, older, & larger than all the others around it. It fell when another tree fell & hit it, knocking it over. A Ranger in the area when it fell thought a train had derailed – that’s how loud it was!! It’s now decomposing, housing lots of other plants & animals, though it looks like it could have fallen just yesterday.



We stopped at the ‘Immortal Tree’, one that is technically dead, although branches still grow from it. It’s called immortal as it survived the 1963 flood, a logger’s axe, & was struck by lightning, knocking off a 50 foot section on top. We also visited the ‘Chimney Tree’ which was burned by fire which hollowed it from the inside.

From there, we continued North to the North entrance, jumped on the 101 and drove to Shelter Cove, a black sand, smooth pebbly beach about 15 miles west of Garberville.




Though we’re not sure they calculated it right – it was a crazy windy road, up & down the mountain until you finally got to the beach – it had to have been further than 15 miles!! The beach was very pretty – small pebbles & black sand. I was looking forward to a little ocean rehabilitation for my leg, but no such luck – the ocean was too rough & the riptides were threatening.





We meandered up & down the beach, checking out the surf & area. We saw this cool starfish while walking – it was very unique we just had to snap a picture!





The beach was not volcanic, just black shale. It was beautiful and is part of an area called the ‘Lost Coast’ – though it’s a drive to get there, no wonder no one comes to visit! When we arrived, there was only one other couple on the entire beach. Nice!!

After Shelter Cove, we went back up the ‘Avenue of the Giants’, this time from the South (and we had a map this time!).





Our campground is called Burlington & is just past the ½ way point of the drive & the very large Humboldt Redwoods State Park Information center. We gathered up my clothes & headed to the Laundromat just down the road in Myers Flat (we have instituted a strict use it, wash it, policy for anything I touch as my poison oak is very bad). I feel like a wimp because I’ve read of people who get poison oak over 60-80% of their body! I only have it on my legs & arms and am suffering. The large patch on my left leg is the worst – it is about the size of a large grapefruit, has oozing blisters and hurts (read – itches so badly it hurts) like hell! The other spots are not so bad – two spots on my left arm (about a quarter size), about 12 individual spots on my right lower leg, a large patch on my upper right leg about the size of an orange, and even a few bumps on my belly button!! I’ve learned…I hate poison oak & will do everything in my power not to get it again! And that Benadryl is my friend…haha.

OK, back to laundry. It adds up quick!! Especially with the changing temperatures. We drove into the town of Myers Flat where the ‘Drive thru tree’ is located and spent the time that the clothes were in the washer to explore that area. I’ve read that the drive-thru tree was the first ‘attraction’ in the area – there were some interesting places to explore & of course take a picture or two! After the clothes were finished in the washer, we walked to Riverbend Cellars for some wine tasting. We met Bob there, who explained everything we needed to know about wine in this area (that’s Bob in the background!). They had 5 wines to try, and we ended up in a split decision between the Coquette, & the Firehouse Red. We ended up with bringing the Coquette back to camp with us. Check it out at http://www.riverbendcellars.com/.



Back at camp, it was dinner & a campfire (the temps were down into the 60’s) and off to bed for an early morning to pack & head to the Redwoods!!

Oh, my favorite quote that I saw today was “I feel most emphatically that we should not turn a tree which was old when the first Egyptian conqueror penetrated the valley of the Euphrates….into shingles.” – President Theodore Roosevelt

More to follow…
Rene